Try each of your torque tools in the lock. You may want to use one of the smaller torque tools as well, or put your torque tool in the bottom part of the keyway instead of the (curvy) top. The pins toward the back may feel a bit different from the pins in the front. To neutralize a partially set spool or mushroom pin, reduce torque and push the pin up, allowing the plug to rotate backward a bit as you do. The first sign of spool and mushroom pins is that the lock will appear to be picked, but will only turn a few degrees. Some locks will open both clockwise and counterclockwise, but many will only open when turned a particular way, depending on the configuration of the underlying locking mechanism. Intuitively visualizing the inside of a lock takes a bit of practice, but will pay off as you start picking locks in earnest.
As you lift the pin stack with torque applied, eventually its cut will reach the shear line, allowing the plug to turn; the top pin will then be completely trapped in the shell, while the bottom pin stays in the plug, no longer held down by spring pressure. Set/not-binding. The pin stack was already picked. When inserted quickly in and out of the keyway and rubbed along the bottoms of the pins, they tend to make each pin stack «jump» rapidly. It won’t turn, of course, because the cut of the (single) pin stack is still below the shear line and its top pin is preventing the plug from rotating. You’ll notice that it resists more than it did in the previous exercise because its top pin is pinched between the plug and the shell at the shear line by the torque you’re applying. Reset the lock by returning the plug to the vertical locked position and try again but with torque applied in the other direction. The six character keying code gives the pinning from the front of the lock to the back, with a «-» for a missing pin stack and a digit for a pin that is installed.
The numbers on the front of the practice locks indicate the keying codes, from the front-most pin stack to the rear-most. Find the board with the six «Arrow AR1» keyway locks. The keyways include Arrow («AR1»), Ilco-Schlage-multiplex («SX»), Schlage-C («SC»), and Yale-8 («Y1»). Go back to the «Arrow AR1» keyway lock board and find the one pin lock. Find the ward directly under the pins and pivot the shaft of the pick at the font of the keyway. Note that the pick should be held mostly by the shaft of the tang, not the «handle.» This allows better control and feedback. You should be able to confidently find each pin and push it all the way up, without jamming the pick against anything or moving other pins. First count them, making sure you find all five (or six). And whatever you do, please don’t remove them from the lab without checking with me first!
It can become very tempting to «cheat» a bit here and move ahead the moment you get a difficult lock open the first time, but that will only make the rest of the course that much harder. Wait long enough, and the solar wind blowing the sail outwards will take the Earth outward too, since the two are gravitationally bound together! Lock picking involves fine movement and control, and if you’re in a hurry, uncomfortable, frustrated, or distracted you will not make progress. Become comfortable with this before you try picking this lock with torque or you could bend or break your picks. Continue with the one pin lock, trying to apply less and less torque each time. Spend more time on this exercise than you think you need to; most people never learn to properly apply the light touch needed to pick better quality locks. While there are literally thousands of different keyways in commercial use in the United States and thousands more abroad, these four give a fairly representative sample of the different kinds of wardings (and pin manipulation problems) you are likely to encounter in common (non-high-security) locks. Schlage SC is a very common keyway.

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